|My first goal is to get the right chip secured in the mount.
When doing this, I try hard to remember:
- Not all 6x6 images look their best in 50x50 a square aperture mount.
- The mount goes in the holder upside down. The apertures
with the curved corners go down.
- The mount must be tight against bottom rail of the holder.
- The film chips must be upside down. If the
manufacturer's edge printing is readable, I've got it wrong!
- The left and right chips must be reversed. If it looks like
real life, I've got it wrong!
To reduce the number of pseudo/backwards slides I start by placing my film chips, without a mount, on the light tablet. This
lets me quickly preview the image through the jig lenses. I can
check for major problems with the film, identify the left and right, and
choose the correct mount for the image. Then I:
- Take my selected mount face up and open it.
- Place the film chips face up in the mount.
- Close the mount and
turn it over.
- Slide the chips out onto my desk and place the (now) upside-down
mount into the jig's mount holder.
- Often apply two Wess-tabs to the edge of the mount to help hold it
onto the jig.
It may seem like a "long way round the barn" to perform those
steps, but it does save me a lot of miss-mounted slides.
With the mount held down, I pickup the rightmost chip from my desk
(remember that I flipped them over, so the rightmost chip on the
desk is really the left half of the image pair), place it on the mount and use
one of the sections of clear acrylic to help hold everything flat.
At this point I have something that looks the assembly in the picture
I then adjust the chip and tape it into place. When
placing the chip, I try to consider:
Besides keeping the film flat, another purpose served by the clear acrylic
is evident in the above image. It protects my chip from fingerprints
and allows me to put my hands just about anywhere without fear of ruining
the image. Next
-- I try to keep the horizon level. If there is a distant shore
visible in the image, this is easy. If the view is taken at an
angle to that shore, it can be very difficult.
- Cropping -- There may be foreground objects, excessive sky or
distracting side elements that should be cropped. Gross cropping
is done with a mount selection, but even then there are artistic
choices to be made.
- Near point and window placement -- If this image has elements
that are near the camera, care must be taken in placing the first chip
to ensure the second chip can be placed in a manner that will allow
the desired window placement.
- Free space between the chips -- Before taping the chip into
place, I may need to trim some from the edges of the film-stock.
It may hang over the edge of the mount or it may intrude so far into
the middle that there will be insufficient space to position the other
film chip without overlap.