Stereo Images From Juneau

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MF Cameras
Stereo Mounting
MF Viewer
Digital Twins
Stereo Help
Stereo Methods
TDC Stereo Vivid
NSA 2004


I have included file sizes in the image links.  Please take a moment to check these sizes before you begin downloading images for viewing.  Several of the JPS files are very large and will be painful to download over a modem link.

The images are presented in cross-eye and anaglyph format.  If you prefer a different format or size, please give the Stereoscope applet a try.

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Java Stereo Viewer

Many of these pages use a Java Stereoscope applet by
Andreas Petersik
. It made a Java convert out of me and I highly recommend it.

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Starting Off Right

My first goal is to get the right chip secured in the mount.  When doing this, I try hard to remember:
  • Not all 6x6 images look their best in 50x50 a square aperture mount.
  • The mount goes in the holder upside down.  The apertures with the curved corners go down.
  • The mount must be tight against bottom rail of the holder.
  • The film chips must be upside down.  If the manufacturer's edge printing is readable, I've got it wrong!
  • The left and right chips must be reversed. If it looks like real life, I've got it wrong!

To reduce the number of pseudo/backwards slides I start by placing my film chips, without a mount, on the light tablet.  This lets me quickly preview the image through the jig lenses.  I can check for major problems with the film, identify the left and right, and choose the correct mount for the image.  Then I:

  1. Take my selected mount face up and open it.  
  2. Place the film chips face up in the mount.
  3. Close the mount and turn it over.  
  4. Slide the chips out onto my desk and place the (now) upside-down mount into the jig's mount holder.
  5. Often apply two Wess-tabs to the edge of the mount to help hold it onto the jig.

It may seem like a "long way round the barn" to perform those steps, but it does save me a lot of miss-mounted slides.

With the mount held down, I pickup the rightmost chip from my desk (remember that I flipped them over, so the rightmost chip on the desk is really the left half of the image pair), place it on the mount and use one of the sections of clear acrylic to help hold everything flat.  At this point I have something that looks the assembly in the picture above.    

I then adjust the chip and tape it into place.  When placing the chip, I try to consider: TIM25921.JPG (74344 bytes)

  • Horizon -- I try to keep the horizon level.  If there is a distant shore visible in the image, this is easy.  If the view is taken at an angle to that shore, it can be very difficult.
  • Cropping -- There may be foreground objects, excessive sky or distracting side elements that should be cropped.  Gross cropping is done with a mount selection, but even then there are artistic choices to be made.
  • Near point and window placement -- If this image has elements that are near the camera, care must be taken in placing the first chip to ensure the second chip can be placed in a manner that will allow the desired window placement.
  • Free space between the chips -- Before taping the chip into place, I may need to trim some from the edges of the film-stock.  It may hang over the edge of the mount or it may intrude so far into the middle that there will be insufficient space to position the other film chip without overlap.
Besides keeping the film flat, another purpose served by the clear acrylic is evident in the above image.  It protects my chip from fingerprints and allows me to put my hands just about anywhere without fear of ruining the image. Next

[ Assemble the Tools ] [ Fix the Right Side ] Adjust the Left Side ] Close the Mount ]

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