Top MF Cameras Stereo Mounting MF Viewer Rolleidoscop Digital Twins Stereo Help Stereo Methods TDC Stereo Vivid NSA 2004
|
I have included file sizes in the image links.
Please take a moment to check these sizes before you begin downloading images
for viewing. Several of the JPS files are very large and will be painful
to download over a modem link.
The images are presented in cross-eye
and anaglyph format. If you prefer a different format or size, please give
the Stereoscope applet a try.
|
I strive for browser independence. Please let me know if you
experience problems with these pages.
|
Many of these pages use a Java Stereoscope applet by
Andreas Petersik. It made a Java convert out of me and I highly recommend
it.
|
| |
Connecting the twins
To connect the cameras top to bottom is a tough job. With the A5 twin I
built, I tried making a U shaped bracket connected to their tripod
sockets. For several reasons, this didn't work very well:
- It required space between the cameras to reach the mounting screw
- Bending the bracket to a precise U was very difficult
- Every time the cameras were mounted they had to be realigned
- The alignment was hard to maintain during transport
|
|
For the A100 twin, I took a different path and decided to glue both cameras
directly to a fixed spacer bar. I tried several different adhesives to do
the job before I settled on 3M Marine Adhesive 5200. Among Juneau boaters,
it is said that 5200 is the stuff to use if you never want it to come
apart. I tried both 5200 and 4200 on a test jig and confirmed that 5200
was the stronger of the two. While 4200 would probably have done the
trick, in the end, I used 5200. Time will tell if I regret the choice.
Alignment
When working with the A5s, I determined that the CCDs of the two cameras may
be misaligned even when the cases are perfectly aligned. With this in
mind, I tried to design an alignment procedure for the A100s to prevent it from
being a problem. I stood the left camera on a smooth horizontal surface
and applied some 5200 to its top edge. I stuck the spacer bar to the left
camera and applied some 5200 to the bottom edge of the right camera and pressed
it against the spacer bar. I then turned both cameras on and used their
LCDs to align
the tops of their image area on the same object by rotating one camera or the
other. When both cameras seemed to be seeing exactly the same things, I
clamped them and left them to cure.
After the glue had cured, I took some test shots. The shots revealed
that I hadn't succeeded in getting the two camera's correctly aligned.
With hindsight, I can see what I should have done:
- Clamp the left camera to that smooth horizontal surface and confirm that
it was perfectly vertical
- Apply the 5200 to the camera edges and press them together
- Take a picture with both cameras
- View the pictures on a large computer screen rather than trying to use the
LCD viewfinder
- Adjust the camera alignment and repeat until correct. The 5200
allows 30 minutes working time.
- Clamp the two cameras to each other
- Confirm that the alignment is still correct by taking yet another set of
pictures
|
|
This procedure would be much more work than what I did for this rig, but the
resulting alignment should end up being much better. For this camera, I
will have to tweak each pair as I "mount" them. Since I used 3M
5200, the alignment will never change, so it should be an easy operation to
batch in software.
How does it work?
Great! It fits in my belt packs. It is much less intrusive than
my A5 rig and weighs less. Camera firmware has improved tremendously in
the last four years and the A100s are much easier to use than the A5s. The
separation is too small for dramatic landscapes, but this shortcoming is of my
own making. I still carry a slide bar for such occasions.
|