Stereo Images From Juneau

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MF Cameras
Stereo Mounting
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Rolleidoscop
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I have included file sizes in the image links.  Please take a moment to check these sizes before you begin downloading images for viewing.  Several of the JPS files are very large and will be painful to download over a modem link.

The images are presented in cross-eye and anaglyph format.  If you prefer a different format or size, please give the Stereoscope applet a try.


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Java Stereo Viewer

Many of these pages use a Java Stereoscope applet by
Andreas Petersik
. It made a Java convert out of me and I highly recommend it.

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Determining Switch Functions

Attached to the top of the rear skin, you will find a small circuit board that has the push buttons, control dial, and shutter release.  By pulling four silver screws, you can gently fold the circuit board down to get to the shutter button.  There are control buttons that remain cemented to the rear skin, so be careful when folding the board down.
This is where the action is.  It took quite a while with a VOM and some extra hands decipher it.

  • Contacts 1 and 2 seem to be always connected to each other.
  • When you half press the shutter release, 3 and 4 are connected to each other.
  • When you depress the shutter button fully, 1, 2, 3, and 4 are all connected.
  • Connecting 1 and 4 acts like a full shutter button press 
The job, then, is to attach some wires to these points, and extended those wires beyond the camera shell to a set of external switches.

1/4 inch screwdriver for scaleFor version one, I used some "wire wrap" wire to extend contacts 1,3 and 4.  Unfortunately, I had only blue wire and other colors weren't available in Juneau.  Therefore, I had to tag each wire before soldering it in.  This will make working on the leads much more difficult later as I will have to remove the tags when I'm all done.
For version two, I used the cables I cut off of a set of super cheap "ear bud" head phones.  They provided me with very flexible four conductor cable with molded 1/8" stereo plugs already attached.  Except for cramming the extra bulk of the wire around the shutter buttons, it is a far superior to "wire wrap" wire.  In all, though, this is delicate work (that's a 1/4" screwdriver weighting down the circuit board).  I used the smallest tip on my temperature controlled Weller iron, and it was still too large.  This is not a job I would attempt with a 25 watt pencil iron from K-Mart.

AUT18460.JPG (22438 bytes) These are scenes from the assembly of version two.  To the left, you can see three conductors from the headphone cable, stripped and ready for action.  To the right, the routing of the newer, more flexible cabling.  As I wanted to retain full stock shutter button control, the real trick was maintaining sufficient space around the switch for the mechanical button to clear. AUT18464.JPG (109567 bytes)
We now have some wires connected to the switch, but we need to get them out of the camera.

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